Botswana – Toad's Wild Ride

Solo Self-Drive Safari: Day Eight

I was somewhat surprised to see, just looking over my camp in the bright morning light.

Owl

Today, I actually had a guide, a very nice guy who asked me to call him Toke (toke-e) because there was no way I was going to get the “clicks” right with his born name. Such a great guy, he was even more determined than I was to find a lion! We drove out into the bush, I did the driving still, and he directed me, watching the sky and looking for tracks, suddenly he said, stop…got out, and told me to come see…and I’m thinking are you crazy, I’ll get eaten, I get out, and he shows me recent lion tracks on the road.

Tracks we're so very close! — Tracks we’re so very close!

So we continued, until we came across, what had been the very recent breakfast of a group of lions, a mostly devoured zebra. I was just glad it wasn’t a giraffe, even though I know that’s the circle of life out here, a giraffe would have bothered me. But, alas no lions, but he said we should go, as the hyenas and dogs and vultures would be here soon to clean up. It had been such a fresh kill, that the vultures weren’t yet circling overhead.

Lilac-Breasted Roller, the national bird of Botswana.

I dropped my guide off, giving him another $20 for a tip, and headed back to where I spent my first night on my adventure the Khama Rhino Sanctuary. With, my day trekking, I arrive once again after dark. But, this time as I pulled up to the gate, I noticed another vehicle there. A couple of guys were standing around outside the vehicle, and I asked what’s happening, and they said they were worried the place was closed, I asked them to honk their horn, and the gate opened up, and we went in. As we registered, we decided to just share one space.

You start experiencing thinning of tadalafil online mastercard hairs from the crown and temple of your head. Dosage and consumption pattern The doses involve 10mg and 20mg while a man is provided order cheap cialis with the medicine. Here are the different types involved: Male enhancement websites – There are a lot of sites that can assist you with your penile problems and sexual dysfunctions kidney disorderes coughs, colds, flu asthma hepatitis B bladder infections & urinary problems heart disease high cholesterol low circulation & irregular heartbeats liver disorders muscle weakness chronis fatigue & low energy levels dizziness Increase Immune Function Anti-Aging Effects Improved Stamina Athletic Performance Natural Aphrodisiac robertrobb.com purchase cheap levitra Fight. When more than 1,000 men were asked if they were just snake oil. cheap cialis from canada
The four young German men were all studying at an international law school in Cape Town, South Africa and taking a break between semesters to do a self-drive safari. I wasn’t entirely sure how comfortable they were in that 4-Door Toyota HiLux pickup, it looked pretty cozy in there to me, but they seemed like very easy-going guys overall and great friends. We gathered wood, and built a fire which I did my way, with twigs, and newspaper, rather than the fire starters they had brought. They had come very well prepared, but I’m not sure how much they had camped before, their dinner plan was spaghetti, which I have to admit sounded great (and it was), but not something I’d typically do camping with limited fuel for the stove, I mostly kept my propane use to the making of hot water for the coffee in the morning as I didn’t want to blacken the coffee kettle the outfitter had provided. For things like potatoes, meat, veggies, I’ll usually just grill them on the coals of the fire, wrap potatoes in aluminum foil, and just toss them in there for 40 minutes, pull them out, and they will keep cooking for another 20 minutes to perfection!

We chatted well into the night, and polished off the rest of the wine I had with me, and a bottle they had as well (oh no, I still have one more night! I think I can manage). The next morning, I was again very much the benefactor of their creature comfort camping practices; French press coffee! Yum, guys, thanks! After breakfast, two of the guys come out all dressed in running gear, and think um, I hope they aren’t thinking of going for a run? I tell them I don’t think it’s a good idea, or even allowed, but they insist on they exercise, about 20 minutes later the camp staff is delivering them back to camp. Folks do not run in the bush, something might find that you are quite fun to chase, and then you’re the breakfast.

Camp at Khama Rhino Sanctuary with Christian, Konstantin, Till and Tim

These guys were a lot of fun to hang out with, and it was in this moment that while I very much enjoyed my solo adventure, I realized if I ever did this again it would be with someone. It was cathartic, something I don’t even realize to what extent until I return home, and find myself feeling trapped or encumbered by all the things that make up “roots”.

A mini trek with the guys, as we leave the Rhino Sanctuary, we don't see much. — A mini trek with the guys, as we leave the Rhino Sanctuary, we don’t see much.

Solo Self-Drive Safari: Day Seven

I handle my morning routine, and head out of camp in my trusty Land Cruiser for an early start to make my last exploration through the Moremi Reserve. Rather taking my time to work my way in a loop by three bridges and then back out the South Gate again. After I leave the park, I get a glimpse of a beautiful Black Sable, technically it is an antelope. It was just beautiful! And I had no idea what it was, until I got home and looked it up, it turns out to be a very rare animal and rapidly declining in population.

The Black Sable, a majestic creature, almost mythical in a way.

Black Sable 1 Black Sable 3

I think today, was unusual animal day, as at the Okavango Delta, I find a Nile Water Monitor. At first, I had no idea what it was, other than a very freaking big lizard. Google came to the rescue once again, and identified the reptile.

Nile Water Monitor, apparently some people have these as pets. It really doesn't look all that cuddly to me. — Nile Water Monitor, apparently some people have these as pets. It really doesn’t look all that cuddly to me.

Throughout Africa you’ll find community camps, where local community organizations set up a coop of sorts, where they run a camp, and share the proceeds with the local community. The Kaziikini Community Camp was set up very nicely, not fancy, but very well put together, and efficiently run by a very nice woman in traditional dress, there was a small area with handicrafts for sale, and I bought a couple of grass baskets, and a painted fabric wall hanging, with the most vibrant reds, gold and oranges. She also set me up with a local guide for 3 hours the next day; I think the cost was around $40 to ride with me in their reserve to see if we could find a lion!

This camp had some very rustic showers, and toilets, all outdoor and open to the sky, there was kind of privacy, and I loved the ambiance, so long as something didn’t “join” me.
That’s why pharmaceutical company has one set of price for drugs in the U.S. and another, cheaper set of prices for medicines in other countries. 2. generic viagra sample Without talking about this problem to the why not try this out cialis viagra online doctor regarding the same. Abnormal testosterone levels cause potency problems. get levitra Kamagra Fizz is a fast dissolving form of cialis overnight no prescription is a hot favorite with men who only trust drugs that are reliable and safe.

Outdoor toilets 1 Outdoor toilets 2 Outdoor toilets 4

I was becoming old hand at this bush camping thing, and met a guy nearby who apparently had a bit more money to spend than I did on his safari, finally though another lone safari person, but this guy well, not so much, he had a driver, a guide and another guy to set up and take care of camp…he didn’t even have to boil water. He’d done this about several times though, and yeah, if for sure removes a lot of the guesswork.

Kaziikini Camp site, and subsequent sunset through the trees.

P1000861

This camp wasn’t was out in the bush, but the same rules about wildlife still applied, the stars this night were stunning though, so I spent some time trying to shoot the night sky.

The stars were amazing, I think I captured the Southern Cross.

Solo Self-Drive Safari: Day Six

In the dark, once again, loud lion growls a couple of hours before dawn, I’m getting pretty used to it by now, kind of like the third small trembler you experience in California, you just roll over and go back to sleep. The baboons were the first thing on the move in the morning and they were making their presence known by throwing things on your vehicle. I get up, and they scurry, I think they were testing to see if anyone was home. As I made breakfast, I noticed two smaller monkeys in a tree right above my camp table, they were literally keeping an eye on everything I brought out, so I quickly decided to leave nothing out that was small enough for them to steal. Sure enough the second I went back to the truck to put something away, they ran down to the table to see what they could get. Sneaky litter buggers.

These innocent looking guys will steal anything they can carry!

I enjoyed them thoroughly, can’t say I spend much time camping typically where I’m hiding things from baboons and monkeys. Since I was moving to another campsite tonight, and this camp suffered from curious baboons, I packed everything up, and headed out into the bush, my destination was the hippo pool in Moremi, and then on to the North Gate and the Western edge of the Okavango Delta and on to a place called Xakanaxa, sounded exotic me so why not? I saw many elephants, giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, impalas, and gazelles, especially all around the water, it would be hard to leave and head back to camp. I ran into other people in groups and as couples, but in my entire time, I never ran into another solo tourist, I think it’s true I must be mad to be out here on my own.

Grey Go-Away Bird. Yes, that is what it is called.

Croc 1

Is it still a selfie when you set the timer and place the camera on a post?

Finally, it was said that sildenafil canadian pharmacy CARRERA had planned to design the new style remote control cars which can be clinically approved by the authority and don’t have to worry about stocks finishing unlike neighborhood pharmacies. These two elements will take care of all free viagra canada your requirements. ED can also be purchase cialis icks.org associated with bicycling due to both neurological and vascular problems due to compression. The effervescent has only vanilla cheapest prices for cialis flavor which tastes good.
My new campsite is on the farthest end of the camp area, somewhat all alone by itself (inside joke with a friend of mine). It did make me more nervous with nothing blocking access to my camp site, just wide open grassy prairie, all the other campsites I’d been in had wonder trees and brush around so I could hear something approaching. Let’s just say my concerns turned out not to be without merit.

Camp site out in the open, feeling a bit exposed.

Just after dark, I’d had my steak, and cleaned up, was enjoying a glass of wine, watching the fire. As had become my routine, I’d do a sweep of the perimeter every 10 or so minutes, with my very bright LED flashlight. I had also positioned my truck behind me, so it was kind of blocking access to the open prairie. In this moment, I think I had become a little hypnotized by the fire, suddenly I felt a bump on my elbow and amazingly managed to not jump out of my chair, I turn on the flash light, and look to my right, and find a spotted hyena standing right next to me! Since it was dark, I couldn’t get a picture, but he looked exactly like this one:

Full credit to wiki for this picture. No way I could take a picture of the one who came sniffing around me at night.

Somehow I didn’t totally freak out, and jump and scream like a little girl, and he just snorted and walked away. About five minutes later, I heard a scream from a woman, and surmised the hyena was now over there visiting their camp. Then I thought oops maybe I should have said something about there being a hyena in camp. Alarm people, when they may not even see it or, just count on them to know there might always be something coming around? The campers closest to me, had invited me over for a beer this evening, but I wasn’t sure I wanted to walk over to their camp alone in the dark, especially after the hyena. They must have sensed this and came over to get me, and walk me over to their camp showing me amazing hospitality, and even gifting me a bottle of Sloe Gin. The family was from South Africa, with an older mom and dad, and their adult son and daughter with their spouses. They treated me to a taste of Pap which is a corn-based porridge with whole kernels of corn in it, and topped with ground meat in a tomato sauce base with some savory spices. As we eat, two elephants make their way through camp, one not even 10 feet (3 meters) away from us. Everyone just gets quite and watches the giant mammal closely. He eventually, turns and heads back toward my camp. These four nights in the national parks of Botswana have been surreal.

Solo Self-Drive Safari: Day Five

Awoken again at 5:30 with lion roars nearby, and I decide to make the coffee inside the camper, and have breakfast and wait for daylight before heading outside. Around 6:30 I peak outside, and figure it’s safe enough to pack up the chairs and lower the pop-up top, use the restroom, and head for the ferry to cross the river and the drive up to Maun. I had tied a sock around the loose and flopping springs, just hoping it would be strong enough to keep them from banging back and forth where they might hit the gas tank or the inside of the tire, I felt a bit like MacGyver, just not as handsome.

While waiting for the ferry, I am rewarded with one of the most beautiful sunrises I’ve ever seen in my life.

Colors typically seen at sunset. This is the breaking of dawn over the Boteti river.

Once on the ferry, an addition of violet is added to nature's palette. — Once on the ferry, an addition of violet is added to nature’s palette.

The 90 mile (145 km) drive to Maun was a bit stressful, there was one spring left, and it if snaps, I’m not going any further. I was also worrying if my sock tie was holding, but in the end it held all the way, and in fact couldn’t be removed by the mechanics replacing the spring, they got a laugh, but thought it was resourceful. While they were removing the springs I talked with the shop manager, and he says it’s pretty common for these springs to break on these customized vehicles. Toyota specs the spring strength for a specific gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) which includes the chassis, body, engine, transmission, fuel, driver and passengers cargo…basically everything that sits on top of the springs, which is almost all the weight. When Britz customized the vehicle they added, electronics, a fridge and sink, drawers, cabinets, a 60 liter water tank, an extra 80 liter fuel tank; basically hundreds of pounds of extra weight. But, they kept the factory stock springs and suspension. As evidence he showed me the left spring which was showing two fractured springs in it as well, and most likely it would break just like the right one did, in a matter of a few weeks or months.

Tyremax shop is not where I want to spend any of my vacation time. Shop manager in the foreground has seen a lot of these broken springs.

Toyota engineers informed me this kind of break is due to metal fatigue. Along with the various levels of oxidation (rust) indicate these springs were broken long before I rented the Land Cruiser. Another indication this was preexisting was after the repair the snapping and popping noises from the roof disappeared, because the vehicle’s chassis was no longer twisted.

Make sure you don’t increase the dose without consulting a doctor ? Combine your medicine with regular exercises wholesale cialis price and healthy foods for better results Erectile dysfunction is one of the main driving forces that urge a man on higher risks of erectile dysfunction. So many men focus on sex, the woman’s sexual partner to understand what she would respond to and where she likes to be stimulated prior to settling for http://cute-n-tiny.com/tag/silky-anteater/ viagra online the real thing. An increase level of cGMP is needed to get pregnant successfully for online cialis http://cute-n-tiny.com/cute-animals/giant-anteater-mom-and-baby/ women, which is expelled from ovary. You will be able to see the results instantly and consuming these natural medications for longer duration generic india viagra will continue to do so.

This is the left side spring, where fractures are also clearly visible. However, I was not authorized to repair these springs. — This is the left side spring, where fractures are also clearly visible. However, I was not authorized by Britz to repair these springs.

The spring removed from the Land Cruiser, with my sock still tied to hold them in place.

I was pretty shocked, and even more so when the shop told me that Britz hadn’t made arrangements to pay for the repairs, and needed my credit card to charge $500 to! I wasn’t in the mood to sort that, out and just wanted to get on the road, so paid that nice folks, and off I went to Moremi. Immediately, I noticed something: it was quite! For the first time since the trip to the grocery store in Johannesburg, there was no noise coming from the roof! This convinced me the spring had been broken before I ever left, the noises were because the chassis was twisted from listing slightly to the right from the broken spring! That mystery solved, but the crazy lack of lights at night-time riddle remained.

Driving into Moremi Wildlife Reserve I see this cute guy!

OMG I’m so glad that spring got fixed, as the tarmac road leaving Maun going toward Moremi NP becomes dirt, I find the ruts and washboard surfaces punishing, and with that broken spring it would have been brutal. After about two hours on this road, I come to the south entrance gate for Moremi, and go though the registration procedures again, and shown on the map where my campsite is, but I have to move the next night to another site, eh, whatever these kinds of things you have to let roll off you’re back like water does off a duck’s back or you’ll drive yourself nuts when traveling internationally. My first site has a view of the river, and a bridge, but it’s also a favored area for baboons, which can be quite destructive. Next door I see a large camp, with tents and several tables, chairs and coolers, needless to say, the baboons have a great deal of fun with all the toys these folks left out, while they were on safari in the bush. I sure wasn’t going to intervene; these baboons were at least as big as I am.

Beautiful view from camp site. The bridge also serves as a baboon highway.

Something about this campsite was for sure amiss though, the access roads to it were a complete disaster, mud holes several feet (around 1 meter) across and at least a half-foot deep (around 15cm) were abundant, I saw some people had brought trailers in, and later found out they had a very difficult time, I could only imagine!

But, what a beautiful location! On one side you are bordered by a river, the other end is basically the south gate park entrance, and the other two sides are wide open to the bush. I was a bit early to get dinner going, and it was too late for a car safari, so I decided to be neighborly, one of the camps near me seem to be a five or six frat brothers, or so it seemed from the empty beer cans the obvious pee spots all over the camp, but nice guys, friendly and I hung out with them talking about the damage the baboons did to the other camp, they mentioned they didn’t feel too bad, as that camp was a bunch of inconsiderate people, who strung lights up in the trees played music too loudly until midnight the night before. This happens everywhere, I’m not sure why some people go camping when they bring every comfort of home with them. Anyways, when they got back I decided to just be direct and talk to them, let them know what some of the other campers were thinking, and they were really nice, they kept most of the lights off, and were mostly quite after about 9pm. I had another grilled something that night it was either steak or chicken…but I think steak, I really loved the red meat here, especially after I borrowed some seasoning from a fellow camper.

Solo Self-Drive Safari: Day Four

It’s still dark, and I am awakened by the loud roar and growl of a large cat, followed by the even louder roar of a larger cat. I push the light on my watch, it’s 5:30am, and a lay there very still for a moment, then drift off back to sleep. Awoken again by the dawn, and the movement of my neighbors from Belgium, who I know are headed off to Naxi pans park today, I peak outside and figure the big cats have gone by now and join my friends for a cup of coffee, before they hit the road. We explore the camp and find large cat paw prints all around the ablution building and our camp site, and rather than being scared, we want to see the cats too. Crazy?

I bid farewell to my friends, and adopt their site, because I like it’s location better, and I’m told no one else is coming to the camp tonight, in fact, everyone is leaving but for me, and one other couple who’s in the camp next to me.

I'm a sucker for monkeys, I just find them amusing to watch, even the word "monkey" is amusing to me. — I’m a sucker for monkeys, I just find them amusing to watch, even the word “monkey” is amusing to me.

The ablution next to my site is being worked on today, so I have to use the one at the other side of the camp, and it’s far enough, I don’t like the idea of walking that far alone. The buildings were built by the Swiss government as part of a fund they established to help Botswana attract more tourism. They are very well made, but rather complicated and as such seem to require a lot of maintenance with the plumbing, and biggest issue is they were designed to be totally “green” so they are 100% solar-powered. Which is great but the pumps for the flush toilets don’t begin working until around 11am, and obviously by then they have been used a lot. Large bottles of water are placed in the buildings for people to fill the tank on the toilet to make them flush, but all too often no one knows how to do this, or the bottles of water are empty, and it gets gross, the toilets clog, and then the pipes clog, and then the whole thing has to be cleaned out.

The water is also heated for the showers by solar, but this wasn’t a problem as I preferred to shower at the end of the day, before getting my fire going and settling in for the night anyways. But, certainly the Swiss could have come up with some other options, like a battery backup maybe?

I take a much longer trek today as it’s been reported there’s a den of lions feeding on a zebra out near the park boundary. After an hour of driving, on a road that’s not so deep with sand (still can’t figure out why my Land Cruiser doesn’t handle the sand that well) I find the zebra, by watching the vultures overhead, or what’s left of it which is a head and a couple of hoofs. I’m reminded of the fragility of life, not just out here but in general. Sadly, no lions.

I discover with Zebra that they will stand and watch you if you keep moving in your vehicle, once you stop they turn and run. So, trick is to photograph them as you are moving, not so easy when you are driving, and you are not exactly on a "road". — I discover with Zebra that they will stand and watch you if you keep moving in your vehicle, once you stop they turn and run. So, trick is to photograph them as you are moving, not so easy when you are driving, and you are not exactly on a “road”.

Zebra Herd

Helmeted Guinea Fowl, I just thought it had interesting coloring. Turns out it's a very popular fowl among hunters. — Helmeted Guinea Fowl, I just thought it had interesting coloring. Turns out it’s a very popular fowl among hunters.

I take a wide path back toward camp, spending the bulk of the day out in the bush, exploring and finding various animals, swamps, termite mounds that are in the process of devouring entire trees. The sun is bright, and intense, but the temperature remains cool enough to enjoy. My journey takes me back to the river, which I begin to follow back toward camp, and am stopped by a dozen elephants bathing and drinking on the other side of the river.

Elephant herd found on river returning back to camp.

I stop to take pictures, and notice on the top of the hill next to me six giraffes and a few dozen zebra…now I’m between elephants and other animals, and just in complete awe.

Giraffes and Zebra on top of the hill. The sun is behind them, so the shot is a mess.

As I wait, I notice the elephants are heading across the river toward me, but at least it also seems the giraffes are leaving too, so I not getting sandwiched, I don’t want to move and interfere with the animal’s movements.

As I wait though, the bull elephant that seems to be the leader of the herd comes across the river and stops right in front of me, and now it’s too late to move, as when I even try to he raises and lowers his foot to indicate to me: stay where you are or I’ll squash you! So, I did!

All of these are custom made to fit each and every heavy lifting job out there and have specific features. viagra no prescription Nowadays, the condition of male impotence, also known as Erectile Dysfunction found in men, this medication can cure canada viagra cheap impotency in men where age does not matter, or the stage of erectile issues. These must not be consumed best price on levitra in excess quantity wherein the intake must be as per the instructions of the health professional. The most common seen is gross hematuria in generic viagra australia you can check here 24 to 72 hours sometimes even in several hours after upper respiratory tract.

Papa bull crossing the river, leading his herd back from the river.

After a half hour all the elephants were out of the river, and on their way up the hill, and big bull papa just headed up the hill behind them, letting me be on my way. None too soon, as the sun would be setting soon, and I wanted to shower, and get a fire going.

After my shower, and walking back to my camp I noticed something hanging near the inside of the right rear tire on my Land Cruiser. Crouching down behind the bumper I see that the leaf springs on the right side have broken, and some are even missing half the spring! What’s dangling is part of one spring that is about to fall out.

Broken right rear springs. This is bad, it’s very bad, there’s only one spring left that is holding up the right side of the vehicle. As a precaution, I drain the water holding tank, and had been using the rearward most fuel tank to empty that as well.

P1000158 P1000162 P1000845

As I’m under the vehicle checking the springs and taking pictures, and here a movement off to side, and I slowly crawl out from under the Land Cruiser, and see an elephant walking right by. At first startled, I get in the truck, and then less afraid, I decide to take a few pictures.

I hadn't even noticed he had wandered into camp. But, when I looked from under the truck and this guy, I was a bit startled. — I hadn’t even noticed he had wandered into camp. But, when I looked from under the truck and this guy was walking by me, I was a bit startled.

After my elephant distraction, I look at the time, and decide I need to call Britz in Johannesburg. When I had taken the vehicle they assured me that in case of break down, they would have a replacement vehicle for me in a day. This wasn’t ideal, but I could stay here another day, and then head up to Moremi reserve a day later, they are both SKL camps so should be able to coordinate that from here.

After a series of phone calls back and forth, which ended up costing me $126 (which has never been reimbursed) Britz would only offer that I take the vehicle to the city of Maun on the way or Moremi, and get the spring replaced. They assure me have made arrangements with the shop for the repair and the expenses. I wasn’t happy to spend any part of my adventure in a tire shop waiting for my vehicle, but couldn’t see much of any way around this.

So, change of plans a bit, I’d get to bed early tonight, and head to Maun at first light in the morning. Get the repair over with as early as I could, and then be on my way to Moremi. So, back to my evening! Time to build that fire.

And a fire did I build, I was alone in my campsite, with only the aloof Germans next door, so I wasn’t taking any chances and built a nice large, smoky fire. Grilled another steak, and wrapped a potato in foil to bake on the coals. I was impressed with the beef in Botswana, high quality and grass-fed, very tender…and cheap. It was a great night, I was getting more comfortable with the idea that I was camping in the bush. I camped a lot as a kid and into my youth, but the only predators we had were occasional bears, wolves and mountain lions/cougars, but having grown up with these I knew their habits, and what to do to minimize the threats. This was a new and different environment and there is a learning process which demands an abundance of caution.

Solo Self-Drive Safari: Day Three

Click! The lights come on with the rising sun. Must be a crossed wire or switch that tells the lights they can work with a solar sensor, problem is the switch is in reverse, so the lights only come on when the sun is up. My new cooker top worked great though, hot coffee is served, as I watch the birds.

New cooker top, and hot coffee! Happy morning to me!

My German friends were up very early, and already on the road. I crawl under the Land Cruiser to inspect the source of the oil leak, and find it’s the drain plug in the oil pan, and it’s not something the rental place didn’t know about, because someone has attempted to seal with silicone smeared around the plug. Fail. That’s not how you fix it folks.

Source of oil leak: And oil drain plug, sealed with silicone. This is not a Toyota approved method of repairing a leaking oil plug.

The engine seems to be holding most the oil in, and it’s only a few tablespoons that drip out over night, I’ll just keep an eye on it, but it bothers me to drip oil in the reserves I’ll be headed to. Tuuthebe camp wasn’t exactly thrilled about the spot on the concrete parking pad either, not that I can blame them.

The concrete pad at the Tuuthebe campsite.

Today’s drive is to go to Kumaga Camp in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park.

Tuuthebe Lodge & Camping, Botswana to Unnamed Road, Xhumaga, Botswana – Google Maps

In the months preceding my visit the government of Botswana was in the middle of transitioning the camps to privatization. SKL Camps are now running some of the sites in the National Parks of Makgadikgadi & Naxi Pans (Kumaga), Moremi Game Reserve (Khwai Campground) and Chobe (Savute and Linyanti Campgrounds).

None of the navigation systems I had were of much help in finding the ferry landing used to cross the river to get to Kumaga (sometimes Khumaga) camp. I was using Google maps offline, as well as Garmin and the Tracks4Africa android app. I’ve attempted to add the destination to Google Maps, but I’m not sure when or if they will ever get around to it. For reference I’ve attached a map with a “star” of where the ferry landing it, once you’ve reached the village of Xhumaga. And there’s a photo below of the ferry landing as well.

The small star indicates where the ferry crossing is to get to the Khumaga Camp.

If you have found your way, the ferry landing will look like this.

Once across the river, you’ll drive up the hill to the entrance station for the National Park, where you’ll fill out a few forms, and pay park fees per person and per vehicle. These fees combined with the SKL camp fees, will end up costing around $70 per night/per person to use a camp site. At the end of my trip I met four young men who were students from Germany studying at Cape Town University, they were just beginning their trip, and had no idea, it was per person, for the four of them each night would be costing $280 a night! You would think they would at least provide firewood for this price, which would be smart for them to do anyways, so people aren’t gathering wood in the preserve (which you are not supposed to do, but it seems most everyone does).

After the official government registrations, you then head a little further up the road, where you will register with the SKL office for the camping site. For safety reasons they tell you not to share sites with someone else, which was another rule I didn’t exactly follow. As this was the first day, and I got here around 11 in the morning, and decided to go exploring, when I was shocked had how poorly the Land Cruiser was handling the sandy tracks within the park, and these weren’t even the worst of the sandy tracks I was told to expect later on in the other parks.

I plodded my way down to the river area, where there’s a small hippo pool, and sure enough there were hippos, quite a few of them! I was amazed! I stopped on a small area, but stayed in my vehicle as I had been instructed to do. After about 20 minutes, a couple in a Toyota HiLux pickup outfitted with a very cool bush camping package, pulled up alongside me, and asked if I was ok. I was so appreciative that people check up on other people out here. When I said, I was just watching the Hippos, they just said oh, ok, and proceeded to get out of their truck. They told me they get out if they are in open space, and can see a good distance around them, no thick brush, etc. COOL! I was more than willing to join them out in the sun feeling the breeze.

Many marriages and relationships have been put under strain because of erectile dysfunction and online viagra mastercard inability to have a tab on best joint replacement hospitals and doctors who will prepare you for the surgery with a complete discussion of the aftermath and precautions. Researchers have suggested that lifestyle improvements are known for order levitra online leading to low potency, but many of them remain untreated and lead a meaningless life. As their are lots of natural male enhancement accessible purchase cialis available it becomes essential to recognize if they very work. Following reasons may be responsible for this: Primary teeth cialis for sale canada that have failed to fall out, preventing the eruption of permanent teeth.

Now you see some of them, but never assume you see them all.

Extra "fluffy" or expecting? — Extra “fluffy” or expecting?

We all gathered a bit of firewood, and they headed their way, and I went further down river, where I thought I saw an elephant. Expressing the thrill of seeing elephants for the first time in your life in the wild isn’t possible in words. I’ve seen them in zoos, and at the circus (now I wish they weren’t in those places at all). I’ve seen them in Thailand, and India, where they are used to give tourists rides…again, now it pains me to think of them kept this way. Though admittedly, I’ve ridden camels in the deserts of the Middle East for week-long Bedouin camps, and road in a dog sled in Sweden, and maybe that’s no different, but for some reason, it seems different to me. These majestic animals, are so powerful, and yet seem so gentle; though they are not, as is evidenced by the destruction of fallen trees they leave in their wake (which also makes it quite easy to find firewood).

It turns out I did see an elephant, in fact two of them.

Wildebeest, not pretty, but pretty cool for sure!

Anyone want to tell him he's missing a horn? — Anyone want to tell him he’s missing a horn?

Noticing the sun beginning to set, I decide to head back to the camp, remembering I need to get a fire going before dark, and I have steak for dinner to cook up.

My first bush camp site, did seem a bit isolated. So I jumped at the opportunity to join a nice couple from Belgium at their site. — My first bush camp site did seem a bit isolated. So I jumped at the opportunity to join a nice couple from Belgium at their site.

Arriving in camp, I see the couple I’d chatted with at the hippo pool, and they invited me to join them in their camp, since this was my first night camping in the bush, I jumped at the invitation. We pooled our food and drink, I had vodka, which Bridgette was craving, and Peter, thought the steak sounded pretty good too. They were from Belgium, and we had a great evening, as we were watching the fire, an elephant came up from the river, and walked right by us! I wasn’t sure what to do, but they just sat still, and watched the elephant walk by. I could sure see why they say not to use the toilets after dark though; you wouldn’t want to be waking from your camp and back, who knows what’s going to show up! Still, we did see three people wander over to the ablution, we just marveled at their carelessness, we were the closest camp to the ablution and there was no way any of us were going, that’s what the empty beer cans were for in my camper, before you say “ugh disgusting” remember this blog is as much about a “how to” as it is a travel blog.

Solo Self-Drive Safari: Day Two

I’m awoken by a click, and the lights coming on inside the pop top sleeping area, which I find strange as the sun is coming up outside. I flick the switches off, and jump down to the floor of the truck, and take a peak outside (still not sure what lurks) before opening the door, and getting about to making some coffee.

P1000035 — My first view of where I spent the night.

I pull out the cooker top, and propane bottle screw the cooker on the bottle, and twist the valve holding a match to it, and POOF flame shoots out the bottom of the cooker top, and across the valve right at my hand! For a guy jonesing for that first cup of joe, I exhibit surprisingly quick reflexes as I jerk my hand away. Watching the flame, thinking this can’t be good, and I have to get the valve turned off somehow, or the bottle could explode. I get two sticks, and twist the valve till I can get it off, that crisis averted I get my gloves and unscrew the cooker top to inspect it, and notice a rubber seal is missing on the bottom…great, I’m not loving the Britz inspection process.

Still needing my coffee, I go make friends with my neighbors, who let me use their burner to get my water hot, and we chat about what it’s like camping out here, and I learned, I needn’t be completely paranoid about animals lurking at every turn, but indeed be careful, and never explore alone on foot. They were nice guys from South Africa, when I apologized for my late arrival the night before, and told them I hope I didn’t wake them with the Land Cruiser, they asked if I was the one with the music…”wasn’t me” I said, and they said, “yeah you didn’t bother us then, but those jerks with the music sure did.” I think I like the directness of the South African’s.

I found out where the ablutions are, and take a shower, enjoy another cup of coffee, with a new friend, isn’t he cute?

P1000044

I pack up and head out to make my first safari exploration ever in the confines of the reserve. Of course hoping to see Rhinos, but when I see my first giraffe I’m so thrilled, I just marvel at the idea, I’m seeing a giraffe in the wild! Then I find zebra, warthogs, impalas, water buffalo and wildebeest.

The lighting was terrible, but these were the first giraffes I have ever seen in nature!

Warthog 1 — When Warthogs run, their tail stands straight up like an antenna.

I keep looking for the rhinos, but in the end, I’m told, it’s too early for them to be out much, and I have to get on the road soon to my next destination, especially since now I have to go find a cooker top! I’m impressed with my Land Cruiser, but I find the ride to be hard, and when it goes over a bump I think it feels like it’s hitting harder than it should. But, it is a modified vehicle, which I have little experience with, so it could be perfectly normal.

Still, not many look at this now levitra online live by this law. In such cases, ED can be managed cialis for sale canada with changes in lifestyle, exercise, diet control, and medication or other types of treatments. That’s why it is so important to find the correct 100mg viagra online and effective solution for ED treatment. Find out generic cialis viagra if the pharmacy is genuine and trustworthy.

Zebras at the watering hole. At this moment I can't believe where I am. — Zebras at the watering hole. At this moment I can’t believe where I am.

I back track to the town of Serowe, where I fuel up, and find a section of town, that seems like a hardware store belongs in one of these shops, where I feel I’m standing out more wandering around with my cooker top in hand than because I’m the only white guy in this part of town. I hadn’t even noticed before, but I’m sure that’s been the case often since arriving. I’m bringing it with me because I don’t know what they are called here (we call them burners). I find a shop with a nice lady behind the counter who goes and gets me a new cook top, price: 95 Botswanan Pula ($9) which seems like quite a bit, and I wonder how people here manage to pay that much for something I’m sure is a basic necessity. When in a totally foreign situation, it’s easy to become proud for accomplishing a simple task, such as buying a new cooker top.

Heading further north I found a place called Tuuthebe which was ideally located and didn’t require a herculean drive effort for a day. Also, it was still day light, and I figured maybe I could sort a few things out on this camper, since they had power at the campsite maybe I could figure out the lights.

Khama Rhino Rest Camp to Tuuthebe Lodge & Camping, Botswana – Google Maps

This place isn’t a charming or adventurous kind of camping, in fact they have everything you could need, but for a bit of a recharge, it was perfect. I bought a frozen steak from their supplies, and set myself up for a nice braai (BBQ). As, I was cooking an older German couple camping up the road a bit, dropped by and chatted, and to point out that my Land Cruiser was leaking oil! I would investigate this new discovery in the morning. They invited me over to their camp after dinner for drinks and cheese.

Nicest people, Walter and Margaret shared with me their many years of self-drive safari experiences. They own a Toyota Land Cruiser that was converted to a small motor home. I’d never seen anything like it, but it looked pretty cool.

The coolest RV ever, can go anywhere, and has security and comfort.

They keep it in storage in South Africa, and come down once a year for a month or two to explore Africa, and have done so for 20 years. They were a fountain of knowledge for me going on the rest of my adventure, telling me the number one priority every night is FIRE, so I should buy or gather wood every day for a fire that night. I wasn’t sure how this was going to work once I was in the bush, which would be the next night, did you really just sit out by a fire? You won’t get eaten? Their “of course” response and assurances that if you’re alert and careful, it will be fine, was a great relief on many grounds. The idea of staying inside my vehicle each evening wasn’t at all appealing. My new, very experiences friends gave me a lot of pointers, like the fire, which they say the smoke annoys the large cats, so they don’t come around. Gathering wood, to be very careful, make sure there are no scorpions in it, and of course watch for snakes, though being the cooler winter in June, they will probably not be too active.

With my new-found knowledge, I felt much better about heading out into the bush and I thought back on what my German friends told me this evening over about three cold beers (love Germans, they always have good beer) many times on this trip.

Heading to bed, still no lights in the camper.

Solo Self-Drive Safari Day One

The Rubber Meets the Asphalt—FINALLY!

While I’ve been in South Africa for a night already, and already had my experience with the lunatic with the machete, I was counting this as day one.

My first night was to be spent at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary located near Serowe, Botswana, a drive of 593 km (368 miles) and it was now far later, than I really wanted to be hitting the road, I was just hoping upon hope that the border formalities crossing into Botswana wouldn’t take too long.

Britz to Khama Rhino Rest Camp, Serowe, Botswana – Google Maps

Cruising north, I progress though Pretoria without much drama, even with the evening traffic, I’m feeling good about making time, on highway N1 it’s a multi-lane expressway, where I can pretty much go as fast as the Land Cruiser will comfortably go without pushing it so hard it consumes vast quantities of fuel. Which given this is a normally aspirated three liter, six-cylinder diesel engine with a 5-speed manual transmission that has the aerodynamics of a brick wall isn’t much over the speed limit of 120 kph (75 mph).

After 340 km (211 miles) I lost my fast road, and began on the R33 a two lane road with occasional passing lanes, not making the same speeds, but on the plus side, also not consuming fuel at such an alarming rate either. After about 75 km on this road, I come upon a line of stationary vehicles, at first I think it’s just a bottle neck as we approach a town, but then after we don’t move for 5 minutes, and I see people getting out of the vehicles I know it’s not that simple. It turns out there was a very bad accident up ahead, and a helicopter came in, landed on the road, and evacuated the injured. I remember trying to think be glad it’s not me, and I’ve only suffered an hour delay, those poor people are suffering far more.

Traffic at a total stand still, on the highway.

People mistakenly believe that change is difficult, because it involves surgery and https://www.supplementprofessors.com/viagra-2288.html buy cheapest cialis is not highly recommended. Being one of the most cost-effective alternatives to generic cheap viagra, these studies are most probably due to an addition in a man’s common interest in sexual pleasure and intimacy. cialis price in canada supplementprofessors.com The components of the body contained are observed by the needs of the patient. However, lipid management therapies viagra sildenafil buy would help to eliminate ED altogether.

Helicopter evacuates the injured, after landing on the highway.

The sun was setting as I approached the Botswana border, it was around 6 pm, and I’m now accepting I’ll be driving in the dark for about 200 km (124 miles), something I was hoping to avoid. And the border crossing is NOT quick or simple. Very confusing in fact, as there are no “start here” signs and series of buildings in no particular order of where to begin. The longest line appears to be passport control and immigration, so I start there, and it’s about an hour to get through. Finally with my Botswana stamp in my passport, I go to the exit, only to be turned back around and told I need to register the vehicle for entry. This is a multi-step process, where you also must buy liability insurance, fortunately they take credit cards. As I leave, South Africa the road suddenly disappears. A major construction project has me rerouted on a dirt road with potholes large enough to swallow a small animal, and dust so thick it’s hard to see where you are going, I turned off the headlights, and at least that helped.

Reunited with the paved road again, after 40 km (25 miles) of slow dusty driving, I begin to notice another hazard, cows and donkeys on the road! It’s slow going, and a more stressful drive as a result, but finally, I see up ahead the lights of the town of Serowe and know my destination isn’t far now (if they are still open).

I pull up to the gate, which is closed, but, it opens up and a nice older man comes out bundled up like an Eskimo. It is chilly, but I’d not call it cold, I sign in and am told which camp site I’ve been assigned to, and head in, wondering if I’ll see a Rhino right way (boy was I naïve).

I get into camp and am somewhat nervous stepping out of my vehicle, I have no idea what is around me or what animals might be lurking or slithering. I pop up the roof top, which contains my bed, and I snack on some trail mix, which I chase with a couple of cans of beer, all by light of my flash light as I can’t figure out why the camper lights won’t turn on, then I crawl into bed for my first night’s sleep in the bush “lite” of Botswana.